Sanno Matsuri
The Sanno Festival (山王祭) is one of the three great festivals of Edo and serves as a major highlight of Tokyo’s early summer cultural calendar. Held only in even-numbered years, it alternates with the Kanda Matsuri to ensure the city’s spiritual protections are renewed. The festival is centered at Hie Shrine, a site historically revered as the protector of Edo Castle. During the Edo period, this was one of only two festivals permitted to enter the Shogun’s residence, a prestige that continues today through a sacred ritual at the Tokyo Imperial Palace.
The primary spectacle is the Shinkosai, a grand nine-hour procession that winds through the heart of central Tokyo. This 300-meter-long parade features participants dressed in elaborate Heian-period costumes, ancient floats adorned with mythological figures, and mikoshi (portable shrines). A particularly significant moment occurs when the procession stops at the Imperial Palace, where the head priest offers prayers for the prosperity of the nation. This event offers a striking visual contrast between ancient tradition and the towering glass skyscrapers of the surrounding business districts.
Beyond the main parade, the 11-day celebration includes traditional Sanno Odori folk dancing, where hundreds of people perform under the glow of lanterns within the shrine precincts. Visitors can also participate in the Chinowa-kuguri ritual, which involves walking through a massive reed ring to purify the soul for the remainder of the year. For a comprehensive look at the various tea ceremonies and smaller rituals, see here for the full events schedule.
The Shinkosai typically takes place on a Friday in mid-June, departing from the shrine in the early morning and returning by late afternoon. Because the route covers several kilometers, the best strategy for spectators is to find a vantage point near the Nihonbashi bridge or the Imperial Palace gates. While the main procession is the headline event, the shrine grounds host smaller festivities and food stalls throughout the period. Spectators are encouraged to arrive at the shrine’s grand staircase early to witness the dramatic return of the shrines, though they should be prepared for the high humidity typical of the Tokyo rainy season.