Yagiri no Watashi

Yagiri no Watashi is a traditional ferry crossing on the Edogawa River that serves as a quiet, rhythmic portal to Japan’s past. Established in the early Edo period (1603–1867), it is the only remaining traditional river crossing in Tokyo. Historically, these ferries were vital logistical links for local farmers moving between their fields and for travelers navigating the strictly controlled waterways of the shogunate. While modern bridges have long since rendered the ferry obsolete for commuting, the service has been preserved as a cultural treasure, maintained by generations of boatmen who still propel the wooden craft by hand.

A Cultural Landmark of Song and Story

The ferry owes much of its modern-day fame to its prominence in Japanese literature and music. It is the setting for the tragic 1906 novel The Grave of the Wild Chrysanthemum by Sachio Ito, and it reached national legendary status through the haunting Enka ballad “Yagiri no Watashi” by Takashi Hosokawa. The crossing connects the nostalgic neighborhood of Shibamata in Katsushika with the city of Matsudo in Chiba. For many visitors, the journey is not about reaching the other side—where the landscape is largely composed of quiet riverbanks—but about the sensory experience of the crossing itself.

The Art of the Row

The experience is defined by the absence of an engine. Instead, the boatman uses a single long wooden oar at the stern, utilizing a rhythmic sculling technique that produces a distinctive creaking sound against the water. The roughly five-minute trip offers a rare moment of stillness, providing a panoramic view of the wide Edogawa and the distant Tokyo skyline. On the Shibamata side, the dock is located just a short walk from the famous Shibamata Taishakuten Temple, making it a natural extension of a day trip into Tokyo’s shitamachi heritage. Whether you choose to take a round trip or continue your walk through the greenery on the Chiba side, the ferry remains a poignant reminder of a slower, handcrafted era of Japanese history.

Visitor Information
Address	7-18 Shibamata, Katsushika-ku, Tokyo 125-0052 (Google Maps)
Opening Hours	10:00 AM – 4:00 PM (Daily in Summer / Sat, Sun, & Holidays in Winter) Closed: Irregularly during stormy weather or high winds
Price	Adults: ¥200 / Children: ¥