Shuzenji
Shuzenji (修善寺) is a historic and deeply atmospheric onsen town nestled in the forested hills of the northern Izu Peninsula. Often referred to as the “Little Kyoto of Izu,” the town has maintained a refined, traditional aesthetic that has drawn writers, artists, and weary travelers for over a millennium. The spiritual and physical heart of the town is the Katsura River, which winds gracefully through the center, flanked by vermilion-colored bridges and century-old ryokan (traditional inns) that cling to the riverbanks.
The town’s most iconic landmark is Tokko-no-yu, a small roofed footbath situated on a stone platform in the middle of the river. Legend has it that in the 9th century, the great monk Kobo Daishi was so moved by the sight of a son washing his ill father in the cold river water that he struck a rock with his tokko (a Buddhist ritual tool), causing a spring of hot, healing water to burst forth. While it is no longer used for full bathing, it remains the oldest hot spring in Izu and a popular spot for visitors to soak their feet while soaking in the scenery.
Overlooking the town is Shuzenji Temple (修禅寺), the prestigious Buddhist complex from which the town takes its name. Founded in 807 CE by Kobo Daishi, the temple later switched from the Shingon sect to Zen. It is a site of somber historical significance, having served as the gilded cage for members of the Minamoto clan during the Kamakura period. Nearby stands the Shigetsuden, the oldest wooden structure in Izu, commissioned by Hojo Masako as a sutra hall for her assassinated son, the second shogun Minamoto no Yoriie. This touch of tragic imperial history adds a layer of weight to the town’s otherwise peaceful mountain air.
For those seeking nature, the Chikurin no Shomichi (Bamboo Forest Path) offers a sublime walking experience just a short distance from the temple. The path is lined with towering stalks of bamboo that filter the sunlight into a soft green glow, leading to a large circular bench where visitors can lie back and look up at the swaying canopy. Connecting the various sections of the town are the “Five Bridges of Love” over the Katsura River; according to local lore, crossing all five while making a wish will grant success in romance. In autumn, the entire valley is transformed into a palette of fiery reds and deep oranges, making Shuzenji one of the most coveted foliage spots in Shizuoka Prefecture. The local cuisine reflects this high-altitude purity, with fresh wasabi grated on sharkskin being a must-try accompaniment to the area’s famous soba noodles.
